Articles and Explorations

Jennifer McLagan was born in Australia. She began her professional life in the kitchens of the old Southern Cross Hotel in Melbourne. Work as a chef soon took her from Australia to England, where she practiced her trade at Prue Leith’s highly regarded restaurant in London and then in the kitchens of Winfield House, home of the U.S. ambassador to the Court of St. James. Love and marriage brought on yet another long-distance move — this time to Canada, where she has lived with her sculptor husband, Haralds Gaikis, for the past 29 winters.

A Proustian moment with a plate of bones in Paris inspired the subject for her first book, Bones. In this book, Jennifer embarked on a singular mission to bring back the bold flavours of cooking with bones. Bones is immensely readable; filled with fascinating historical facts, traditions and lore, it is valuable as a work of reference. Published as Cooking on the Bone in the UK 2006, by Grub Street, Bones has received much critical and popular acclaim. It won the James Beard award for Best Single Subject Cookbook in 2006, the U.S winner in the Gourmand World Cookbook Award, and was a finalist in the IACP cookbook awards.

Jennifer’s second book, Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes Ten Speed Press (USA) / McClelland & Stewart (Canada) 2008 was also published in the UK 2009 by Jacqui Small. Fat was the first book to be featured on Mark Bittman’s New York Times blog, inspiring many readers to write odes and haiku to bacon. Fat won the Gourmand World Cookbook Award for Best Cookbook Cover, the Silver Sprout Award, and both the IACP and James Beard Awards for Best Single Subject Cookbook in 2009. It was also named The Best Cookbook of the Year 2009 by the Beard Foundation.

In 2007, Jennifer was a presenter at the highly prestigious Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Master Class Series and has been a frequent presenter at the Epicurean Classic in Michigan. She is a regular contributor to Food & Drink, Fine Cooking and The County Grapevine magazines and is a regular guest on the Australian radio show, Overnights with Trevor Chappell.

Jennifer is hard at work on her third book dividing her time between Toronto and Paris. On both sides of the Atlantic, she maintains a close friendly relationship with her butchers, who put aside their best bones and fat for her.


1. What was the first cookbook you owned?

I can barely remember. I read lots of cookery books, mainly by British authors like Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson, but the first one I cooked from was a series of booklets published by the Cordon Bleu Cookery School of London. They contained practical lessons, menus and even information about china and cutlery. All 18 copies have travelled the world with me and I still make some of the recipes, like the oranges in caramel sauce from the very first menu.

2. What cookbook would you say had the greatest impression on you?

Tough question. Different books impress for different reasons and what impressed me 10 years ago may not today. However, a book I refer to often is Stephanie Alexander’s The Cook’s Companion, first published in 1996. It is full of good information, excellent recipes and my favorite part is the suggestions and ideas in the margins of the book.

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We recently published our giant roundup of cookbook best-of lists from the pundits of the web and print media. Now we’ve invited the other group of experts to chime in: the cookbook store owners. Here are their picks for the best cookbooks of 2010.

These are the people who love cookbooks, who live and breathe them, who are out in the trenches. They see all the new books, they talk to their customers, they meet the authors and chefs who make the books, they taste the food. They see which books are selling, which books delight people and are destined to become stained and tattered kitchen companions. Take their word for it! And please support your independent bookstores by buying some books from them.

Note: all prices are publisher’s list price. Some stores may sell for less.


Omnivore Books on Food – San Francisco, CA

3885a Cesar Chavez Street
San Francisco, CA
Tel: 415-282-4712
info@omnivorebooks.com
www.omnivorebooks.com

Celia Sack:

A couple great gifts are former imports that are now available stateside, including Laduree Sucre by Phillipe Andrieu (Hachette, $39.95) in English, showcasing a panoply of sweets from Paris’ premier patisserie and Ottolenghi by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi (Ebury Press, $34.95), a combination of Israeli and Palestinian food from the London restaurant of the same name.

A big gift book this season will be Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine by Rene Redzepi (Phaidon, $49.95). Noma was recently named the best restaurant in the world, and while you’ll likely never cook anything from this book, ogling the photos is where the fun lies.

Large cooking tomes are the trend this season, from the exhaustively researched Essential New York Times Cookbook by Amanda Hesser (W.W. Norton $40) to Sarabeth’s Bakery by Sarabeth Levine and Rick Rodgers (Rizzoli $39.95), an incredibly detailed baking book.

The Sunset Cookbook (Oxmoor House, $34.95) is perfect for lighter fare, as well as Mexican and Asian recipes, and Bon Appetit Desserts by Barbara Fairchild (Andrews McMeel, $40) covers a huge range of dessert recipes from the magazine’s history. Continue Reading »

It’s that time of year again: a time of best-of lists, and as the holidays approach, they’re coming fast and furious. To save you all that tedious Google searching, Cookbooker has gathered together this roundup of the best cookbooks of 2010 from some of our favorite sources online.  What’s most interesting about this is how optimistic people seem about the world of cookbooks this year – obviously lots of good cookbooks were published, and everyone had their favorites. It’s nice to see, in this time of e-book worries and economic doldrums, that great cookbooks continue to be produced and sold.


Going Shopping?

Prices are publisher’s list price only; some stores will sell for less. To find an excellent independent cookbook store near you and get some expert personal recommendations, use our comprehensive bookstore list.

If you prefer to shop at Amazon, we’d appreciate it if you click through using one of the following links; we’ll get a small tip which will help support Cookbooker.

Amazon US
Amazon Canada
Amazon UK

This article will be updated as more top-cookbook lists come in, with new items added. To prevent this page from becoming a mile long, I’ll provide links only for most new sources. Updated December 19, 2010.

Best of the Best

These are the books picked most often as the best cookbooks of 2010, so if your eyes are too fatigued to go through all of these lovely lists here’s our distillation of the books which have shown up regularly on multiple lists, suggesting they gained a lot of fans this year.

Top Pick: Cookbook of the Year

Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours, by Dorie Greenspan (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) $40

The newest book from this well-respected writer has been highly praised by just about everyone, including Epicurious, Publisher’s Weekly, NPR and Amazon, fellow cookbook authors, food bloggers… so just go and buy it, okay?

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6 Questions: Fany Gerson

Fany Gerson was born and raised in Mexico City and wanted to be a chef since she was a little girl (even though she didn’t know it was an actual possibility).

She attended cooking school in Mexico and then graduated from the Culinary Institute of America. She has worked in kitchens worldwide, including Michelin-three-star Akelare in Spain, Eleven Madison Park, and Rosa Mexicano in New York, where she developed their acclaimed modern Mexican desserts. Her first cookbook, My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats, was published by Ten Speed Press in September, to be followed by Paletas: Authentic Recipes for Mexican Ice Pops, Aguas Frescas & Shaved Ice in July 2011.

Her work has been featured in The New York Times, Gourmet, Fine Cooking, Time Out, New York Magazine, and Edible Manhattan. She started her own company “La Newyorkina” in New York on the summer of 2010, selling paletas and aguas frescas at the Hester street fair and New Amsterdam Market respectively. Fany is planning to open a Mexican Ice cream shop in New York City, late spring 2011.


1. What was the first cookbook you owned?

I’m pretty sure the first cookbook I ever had that I could call my own and not just one that I claimed to be mine (but really stole from my mom) was the Better Homes New Junior Cookbook. I was just learning English and loved to cook, so my dad’s cousin gave it to me as a present.

2. What cookbook would you say had the greatest impression on you?

My dad’s partner gave me a collection of handwritten cookbooks when I graduated Culinary school and they are my most treasured ones. There are some that are also household manuals and the books are all written with beautiful handwriting, incredible recipes and each one is very personal. I feel these are so special not only because they are truly one of a kind but because it’s as if I’m holding a piece of history every time I pick one up. Continue Reading »

A beautiful, engrossing door-stopper of a book, Thai Street Food is a travelogue, a history lesson, a cookbook and a glimpse of a day in the life of the vibrant street food of Thailand.

Anyone who’s travelled to Thailand will have been beguiled by the street markets and the legions of vendors selling everything from noodles to curry, soups to desserts, for eating on the go or sitting for a quick meal. This food traces its roots to the 1960s when more and more Thais came to cities from the countryside for work and, like their predecessors in the industrializing west, had less time (or space, since many were housed in communal dormitories) for the cooking of the countryside and the farm kitchen.

Initially strongly influenced by Chinese cuisine, the first generation of street food was strongly noodle-focused, but as time has gone on and street food has become more integrated into daily life, more and more traditional Thai dishes have come to the streets and night markets. Not unlike in the West, changes to work and living traditions have made prepared foods a simple solution to the realities of busy working life. However, the presence of a strong indigenous food culture (two, really, because of the Chinese influence), means that unlike in the West, Thai fast food has a wonderful diversity and an important social component; much of the life of a community can still be found in the streets and around the food stalls. Continue Reading »

5 Questions: Monica Bhide

Monica Bhide is a widely published food writer and cookbook author. Her highly praised first cookbook, The Spice is Right: Easy Indian Cooking for Today
(Callawind Publications, 2001) is a collection of mouth-watering menus tempered with her up-to-date touches on classic Indian recipes. Monica’s second cookbook, The Everything Indian Cookbook: 300 Tantalizing Recipes–From Sizzling Tandoori Chicken to Fiery Lamb Vindaloo (Everything: Cooking) (Everything Series) was released in May 2004. Her third book, Modern Spice: Inspired Indian Flavors for the Contemporary Kitchen (Simon & Schuster, 2009) has a foreword by Mark Bittman and was recently released in India by Random House where it has a foreword by Chef Sanjeev Kapoor.

In addition to her writing, Monica owns and operates her own cooking school, which has been featured in Bon Appetit. While the cooking school now only offers private, small-sized classes, Monica enjoys teaching cooking nearly as much as she does writing about it. She also teaches sold-out food writing classes.

Monica has done recipe development for the AARP, Health, SELF, MORE, Parents and many other magazines. Her website is at www.monicabhide.com/


1. What was the first cookbook you owned?

I think it was a Hawkins Pressure Cookery book that my mom loved so much. Continue Reading »

5 Questions: J.M. Hirsch

J.M. Hirsch is the national food editor for The Associated Press, the world’s largest news organization. As he says, “I get to influence what millions of Americans eat every day. I watch the trends, break the news and taste many of the best (and sometimes worst) foods. And I get to share all of that via thousands of newspapers and Web sites. It is seriously the coolest job in the food world.”

Busy with writing, work and family life, he came up with his ‘blunt force’ approach to cooking, which is reflected in his newest book High Flavor, Low Labor (our fall challenge title!).  In it, he showcases recipes and ingredients that taste great going into the pot and need less work to taste great when they come out. These are the Parmesan cheeses, balsamic vinegars, jalapeno peppers, chorizos, smoked paprikas and wasabis of the food world.

As well as High Flavor, Low Labor, he is the co-author (with Michelle Hirsch) of Venturesome Vegetarian Cooking: Bold Flavors for Meat- and Dairy-Free Meals.

He lives in New Hampshire with his wife and son, and can be found at www.jmhirsch.com.


1. What was the first cookbook you owned?

When I was about 5 my mother got me a slim paperback called Cooking: Making Things to Eat. Which pretty much says it all. It was intended for children, complete with funky ‘70s-era illustrations, yet includes instruction for making and canning raspberry jam. I still have the book and I now notice the book was part of a series, which also includes a book titled Body Tricks. I wonder what my career path would have been had she opted for that book instead… Continue Reading »

Meeru Dhalwala was born in India but moved to Washington, D.C., at a very young age with her parents. Prior to marrying Vikram Vij and moving to Canada, she worked with various organizations on human rights and international development projects. She received her master’s degree in Development Studies from Bath University in England. Meeru joined Vikram at Vij’s in February 1995.

Together with Vikram, Meeru has turned Vij’s into a culinary destination.

“Fantastic Indian food with a modern twist. Some of the nicest I have ever had.” – Jamie Oliver

“Dynamic Indian cuisine unmatched by anything I’ve tried before, even in London’s Michelin-starred Indian restaurants.” – New York Times


1. What was the first cookbook you owned?

I was given two cookbooks for my 24th birthday: One is called The Greens Cookbook by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. The other is The Moosewood Cookbook by Molly Katzen. I still have them both. Greens was way more sophisticated while Moosewood was very simple and easier recipes. I was vegetarian back then and had recently begun life as an independent adult with a real job. I was also just married and wanted to start cooking dinners at home for my then husband.  I still own both cookbooks. I found it surprising that no one thought to give me an Indian cookbook on that 24th birthday. Continue Reading »

Cookbooker Forum Launches

We’re pleased to officially launch the Cookbooker Forum. For a social site which revolves around cookbooks and recipe reviews, it’s about time we had a way for members to chat with each other and share ideas outside of the review pages.

We’re using the light and speedy Vanilla Forums software for this, and have integrated it into the site so that members automatically have membership in the forums. All you have to do is sign into Cookbooker and then click ‘sign in’ on the forum main page and it will link your accounts.

I’ve started things off with a ‘what’s for dinner’ topic, as well as a ‘site improvements & suggestions’ topic. Feel free to start your own topics, and suggest new categories too. See you on the forum!

A talented writer, broadcaster and campaigner, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is widely known for his uncompromising commitment to seasonal, ethically produced food. His books, journalism and series for Channel 4 have earned him a huge popular following.

Hugh started living in the original River Cottage in rural Dorset in 1998, determined to start growing and rearing some of his own food. His steep learning curve was documented in the Escape to River Cottage series (1999), which won him a big audience. Following this success, and the publication of The River Cottage Cookbook (2001) which won several awards, he was able to establish River Cottage HQ near Bridport in 2004.

Originally a collection of mucky cow sheds, the property was transformed into a rustic, welcoming venue with a professional kitchen, thriving vegetable garden and small collection of livestock. It became the location for a range of River Cottage events and courses designed to promote the “grow your own” philosophy and provide an environment where people could discuss, eat and learn about really good, well-produced food. It was the base for the fourth series, Beyond River Cottage (2004)

In 2004, Hugh published The River Cottage Meat Book to wide acclaim. It has become the definitive meat cookery manual for a new generation and won the André Simon Food Book of the Year Award in 2004.

Newly published in North America are a series of smart, novel-sized River Cottage Handbooks. You can find out more about Hugh and the River Cottage farm, books and TV show at www.rivercottage.net

On Cookbooker, I’ve written about my love of The River Cottage Meat book in some detail; it’s one of my transformative cookbooks.


1. What was the first cookbook you owned?

Cooking is a Game You Can Eat by Faye Maschler. A brilliant and fun collection of easy kids recipes – including how to customise a tin of baked beans, and one of the best and easiest fudge recipes I know.

2.    What cookbook would you say had the greatest impression on you?

Very hard to choose between French Provincial Cooking by Elizabeth David, and The Constance Spry Cookery Book. Every half-serious cook should have both within easy reach.

3. Could you talk a little about any recent cookbooks you’ve found particularly interesting or inspiring?

I’m really going nuts for Yotam Ottolenghi – both the original cook book [Ottolenghi: The Cookbook] and his new book, Plenty [Amazon UK link]. It’s  odd because his style is so different from mine – but perhaps that’s what appeals! Yotam’s recipes are so seductive and enticing, so thoughtful about aromatics and combinations of textures. For a while I thought it all seemed a bit complicated. But once you’ve lined up the ingredients it all comes together very nicely, usually without too much fuss. I totally get it now. In particular I’d say it’s changing the way I use spices, seeds and nuts in my own cooking.

What’s next for you in the realm of cookbooks?

I’ve just started work on the next River Cottage cook book. I don’t want to give the whole game away, but perhaps I can reveal that here won’t be a huge amount of meat and fish involved…

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