kateq's Reviews
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Ad Hoc at Home
By Thomas Keller
Artisan - 2009
Having made the Peperonata Rustica (208), this was a snap to make -- though I did not brine the chicken, which would have added 12 hours of prep time to an otherwise simple dish. I used a lovely locally raised organic chicken and followed the instructions until the end, deciding to finish the dish on top of the stove instead of heating the oven on a very hot day. The chicken was moist and tender and the flavors of the sausage and peperonata blended beautifully. We'll have this again.
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I have been using Keller's method for roasting chicken (Bouchon) for a long time and so it was a natural to try it with the root vegetables. I did, however, omit some of the oil and most of the butter and trim excess fat from the chicken. I think that had I not done this, I would, like reviewer Andrew, have been unhappy with the fat which would have soaked into the vegetables.
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So good and so rich -- happily, a little goes a long way. There's some magic to the way the sherry vinegar combines with the cream to make a sauce that is so much better than one made with sour cream or creme fraiche. We use this with roast beef sandwiches and with smoked trout.
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I first made this in school, and have since made it several times at home--always with wonderful results. It's a lot of salt and it leaves a lot of egg yolks behind (hollandaise? shortbread?), but the fish is so tender and moist and really easy to remove from the crust. I have omitted the orange and varied the herbs -- it's always good.
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Let's get one comment out of the way first: this is not a salad you can make tonight--not unless you have oven roasted tomatoes (5 -6 hours prep) on hand and garlic aioli with which to make the blue cheese dressing and brioche for croutons. That being said, once you assemble the components, this is a knockout salad. It can singlehandedly make iceberg lettuce popular again. Making the lardons as directed is a revelation. They were delicious and just the right texture for the salad. The roasted tomatoes are great in this and the lightness of the croutons is just right as well. The dressing was a huge hit, described as "the best blue cheese dressing ever."
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This is a truly superior dressing. It is simple to make but requires time--time to make the garlic oil (p. 266) which you need, cooled, to make the garlic aioli (p. 333) which you need to make the dressing. But like other Keller recipes I've made, once you have all the parts, you assemble them to make a greater whole. The garlic mayo/buttermilk combo is excellent and the herb combo is just right. We used Maytag Blue and it was fine---a wonderful dressing for the Iceberg Lettuce Salad (p. 150) and for lots of other salads as well.
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Keller's method is, as usual, superb, but also as is frequently the case, there is way too much added fat. I find a mere drizzle of oil and NO butter to be sufficient for excellent results. Like the other reviewers, I think the paper towel tip is brilliant.
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We just finished our second of these gratins and every last bit got eaten. I think the bed of softened onions is such a brilliant idea. So far, I have made this without eggplant, using our own plum-tomato sized heirlooms, thyme from our garden, and zucchini and onions and garlic from local farms. The first time, I made it exactly as directed; the second time I sliced the veg thinner and cooked it for less time with really the same delicious result. It's a good sized gratin, yet we had only a small amount of leftovers which were actually even tastier the second day, so Chef Keller is right on that score as well.
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I almost followed the instructions---I roasted my peppers on the outdoor grill and had a green pepper or two in the mix. Otherwise, I was faithful to the text and with very happy results. These made a marvelous side at a dinner of grilled lamb and were used as a component of the delicious Pan-Roasted Chicken with Sweet Sausage and Peppers (p. 20).
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These are very good, but not better than oven roasted cherry tomatoes which take less than half the time, do not require peeling, and are sweeter. Perhaps if I made these in the middle of winter, when plum tomatoes are the best to be had, I would have had a different reaction, but for all that time roasting, the plum tomatoes were just very good--not magnificent and not really living up to all that effort.
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This is a wonderful salad/side. I loved the dressing, tho I did strain the gastrique to get rid of the pepper grinds (and make one diner happy). I also used a very good sherry vinegar in place of the Banyuls (none on hand). The green bean/potato combination is excellent and the dressing is terrific. We have also used the dressing on roasted beets with happy results.
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I halved the recipe, but used less than a quarter of the butter -- the full amount would have been way over the top. I used vegetable stock (homemade), beans from the farm market and mint from the garden -- heaven! Leftovers were great added to salad.
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I halved this recipe, but otherwise followed it to a tee. I used lovely huge divers scallops. I was careful to make sure the clarified butter was hot enough (shimmering). Mine were done at about three minutes for the first side, and less for the second. We had these with some spinach from the farm and a salsa of mango, pineapple and onion. I don't know that I would have ever thought of brining the scallops, but it's a brilliant touch. I would note, though, that like many of Keller's recipes, it assumes the home cook has a restaurant style larder. Not everyone has clarified butter on hand...
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I too used the off-and-on method in lieu of a diffuser (have one somewhere--couldn't find it) I first made the oil for aioli (for the iceberg lettuce salad) but have become addicted. The oil is delicious; the garlic is heaven and has so many uses. It can be spread on bread; rubbed on meat or fish . One of my favorite uses is to spread it on pizza dough before adding cheese, etc.
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I made this in the blender once and with the Bamix once--both times it was super. I really am not sure that I can see(or taste) a difference in the two methods. It's really wonderful in the bleu cheese dressing. It's a decadent delight spread on a brioche roll for a hamburger.
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I am giving this a four star rating because I think it is a little more complicated than necessary and because I think the addition of an egg yolk makes an incredible difference in the end result. I rolled this out and baked it on a silpat and then cut it with fluted square cookie cutters while still warm. I had almost no waste (just some nice bits for a cook's treat) and this obviated the extra tray and the extra cooling period. This is also wonderful with the addition of some citrus rind and/or almond extract.
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The sauce is fabulous; the meat is fabulous. All my criticisms seem like nitpicking in light of the great flavor achieved. But here goes anyway: my experience is that it's very hard to find the short ribs all in one piece--certainly not at most markets (not even Whole Foods) and even the independent butcher is unlikely to have it on hand. Second, the whole deal with the cheesecloth seems absurd to me--I have no problem with bits of herbs sticking to my meat. Similarly, the parchment lid is a bit much for a recipe designed for home cooks. But the bottom line is terrific---really tender meat, succulent sauce, well worth the effort. I would add that in the heat of summer, this can be done in part in a slow cooker instead of the oven. And it makes sense to make a fairly large batch as it freezes beautifully and the meat is lovely as is or on the Catalan stew.
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Again, a wonderful result but using techniques usually found in restaurants. Having made the braised short ribs, I had only to prep the veg and then put the dish together. But this is a somewhat fussy prep for the home cook. The result, however, is quite wonderful, very bright and complex flavors which do not overwhelm the very good, winey ribs. I would also note that the excess sauce can easily be frozen in an ice cube tray and, once frozen, tucked into a ziplock bag and saved for future use.
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Like so many of the recipes in this book, this one takes a long time, which can be frustrating when one wants to make the pepperonata and see that this several hour process is a preliminary to that recipe. That being said, the technique here yields a lovely result. Finely dicing the onion and grating the tomatoes really makes for an incredible texture; the long, slow cooking renders a mixture of a few ingredients into a marvelously complex dish/condiment.
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These really are excellent biscuits. The combo of cake and ap flour makes me think of real Southern recipes which use that nice soft southern flour. The directions are straightforward, clear. One tip from me: resist the tendency to turn your cutter while it is in the dough--this mashes the layers together and retards rising while baking. I tried some with the addition of some chopped fresh rosemary--very nice!
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This is a perfect recipe. The duck is delicious, juicy, tender. And it's actually an easy recipe. I let mine sit in the fridge about 8 hours. After resting, the breasts sliced beautifully. We went with 125 degrees for the "rosy medium-rare" and it was greatly enjoyed by all.
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The New Moosewood Cookbook (Mollie Katzen's Classic Cooking)
By Mollie Katzen
TEN SPEED PRESS - 2000
What a delightful surprise! While I like celery soup, I thought this might be a bit dull and underwhelming. Boy, was I wrong! I made this as written, making only one change--in the midst of cooking, I discovered I had no celery seeds and so substituted fennel seeds. Where there was a choice, I went with sour cream over cream or half and half. Rather than transferring from pot to blender and then to pot, I used my Bamix. I also chose to puree the sauteed onions, making the soup entirely smooth. It was not bland. It was actually quite wonderful. I do think the amount of salt is a bit much and that my use of fennel was a happy accident. The soup smells great, looks very pretty--a pale yellow green frothy affair--and tastes terrific. I am tempted to try substituting fennel for some of the celery, but the soup is so good as is that I may have to resist my normal meddling. One more thing--this soup could be the stuff of fine dining with just one additional step--straining the soup so that the end result is quite velvety--and the addition of some interesting croutons. But it's awfully good just as is. Edited to add that on the second day, I learned that this soup is delicious cold.
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I loved this soup! I basically followed the recipe but did find a few shortcuts. Rather than pre-soaking the beans, I made them in a slow cooker in which I actually made the whole soup. Also, rather than using a blender to puree, I used my immersion blender--easier, quicker, less mess, same result. I used fresh squeezed orange juice (harvesting all the rind for another recipe). I skipped the bell pepper and the optional tomato. I added one step: after sauteing (sauteeing? always looks wrong) the vegetables, I deglazed the pan with a little hot water and added that to the soup--there was lovely fond left in the pan. I've always like black bean soup and generally always had the Cuban version. The orange in this adds this really interesting undercurrent of flavor and combined with the heat of the cayenne works very well. Definitely five star.
useful (4)
I almost gave this soup 4 stars because I tasted it before I grated on the nutmeg. The amount of garlic seemed a bit much (and this from a true garlic lover) but when I did add the grated nutmeg, between the fabulous scent and the subtle change in the flavor, I was sold on five stars. I made the lowfat version, skipping the butter and flour. As with other Katzen soups, I used the immersion blender which simplifies both prep and clean-up. I do think that the next time I make this, I might try adding roasted garlic instead of raw, or adding the garlic earlier so that it cooks a bit more. As far as this being the low-fat version, it is a rich and satisfying soup and the potato really does provide adequate body to the broth. The nutmeg (do use fresh grated nutmeg) really is magical.
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Another example of Ms. Katzen's 'less is more' style. This very simple, very straightforward treatment of the vegetable brings out the most of the broccoli. I followed the recipe with only one change--being out of basil, I used some Greek oregano. I used whole milk and full fat sour cream, fresh bay and thyme. As with other of her soups, I took the stick blender shortcut, making prep and clean-up simpler. I gave this a four-star rating because I feel there is a layer of flavor missing. I suspect that a touch of subtle sweetness (maybe celery or fennel) and a little more heat might do the trick. But as written, this is very good soup and quite pretty--a very frothy pale green. I served it with some chopped chives and an extra little dollop of sour cream.
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The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook
By Ina Garten, Martha Stewart
Clarkson Potter - 1999
Couldn't be simpler to do and it's absolutely delicious! I put my chicken and marinade in the fridge--came home six hours later, heated the stovetop grill and cooked the chicken--served with cappellini in a lemony sauce and a salad, it made a lovely meal. I think it will also be good served as Ms. Garten suggests with the dipping sauce. I will also try this as a part of a salad.
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This is a very good, very basic sort of soup. I liked the method of sauteing the sliced onions and then later putting the whole mixture through the food mill--the soup is smooth without losing all texture and there is minimal effort involved. Similarly, the branch of rosemary--no fine chopping or mincing and all in one pot. My only criticism is that the soup is so basic--almost a blank canvas, awaiting some embellishment as in heat or spice or some sort of texture. Perhaps croutons or crostini or some sort of salsa or topping. It should be noted that this is a lot of soup--lots more than the six servings listed in the recipe.
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I'm giving this five stars because, for what it is, it's perfect. It's a dinner party/caterer's dream---you can make a large quantity;it's all in one baking dish; it's very simple; it freezes and/or reheats beautifully. And it tastes quite delicious. I personally would want more spice--but that is easily added. It's also a pretty dish--the sauce is deep dark caramel, the chicken skin browns and crisps to an attractive mahogany. Like the other recipes I've tried, the yield is enormous--2 whole chickens to serve 4 - 6 people seems like an awful lot to me.
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What a pleasant surprise! I expected this to be a bit bland, but it is, instead, very full-flavored. I halved the recipe and made only one change--I used aleppo pepper (just got it and was dying to try it) instead of black pepper, but I don't think the aleppo pepper is what made the spread so good. It's just such a good balance of flavors. And like the other BC recipes, it is so easy to make. Terrific spread which I think will become a staple around here.
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I enjoyed this salad and was intrigued by the method of cooking the potatoes in boiling water (as opposed to starting the potatoes in cold water as I have always done in the past). I liked the touch of steaming them after draining and added the bit of wine and stock to re-moisten and add a bit of flavor. As with the other recipes I've made from this book, the amounts seem a bit off---I found the quantity of vinaigrette to be way more than needed for the amount of potatoes. The vinaigrette is a very good classic formula.
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This is a truly delicious beet salad. The dressing is just right--fruity and rich tasting without being heavy. We served it over greens and with walnuts and blue cheese on the side for those who wanted to add something more. I thought it lovely just as it was. My only quarrel with this recipe is the instruction to boil the beets (or, horrible thought--to use beets from a tin). I think the reason a lot of people who don't like beets is because they have eaten boiled beets. I roasted my beets (wrapped in foil, drizzled with a bit of olive oil), peeled them as soon as they were cool enough to handle, and then diced them for the salad. My salad sat in the fridge for a while and then was brought back to room temp--I think it benefited from some marination time.
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I think this is an excellent version of applesauce. I halved the recipe and followed it pretty closely, using a combination of Granny Smith, Gala and Macintosh apples. I loved the spices which I thought were relatively subtle and the citrus rind was great. I see this as a wonderful jumping off place for all sorts of recipes. This could be the base for a really good chutney, with the addition of more spice, cranberries, currants, etc. I also think it could be a great filling for pastry or addition to a muffin or quickbread batter. I had no problem with the butter, though I did add it sparingly; I thought it added a lot to mouthfeel. It's also so easy--peel, squeeze, measure everything into one pot and shove it in the oven. This is one Contessa recipe which I wish I had not halved.
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I find it hard to rate this recipe. The end result was wonderful, but the way there was exceedingly bumpy. First, this is again a recipe for the multitudes--3 quarts of stock, 4 pounds of potatoes, two pounds of fennel---a lot of soup! Second, I found the notion of adding a quantity of heavy cream to this very thick and rich soup inappropriate--and it just seems wrong to add it before the soup cools at all. Third, fennel is very fibrous and doesn't get all that soft and it doesn't pass happily through a food mill nor puree happily in a food processor. Fourth, the potato skins do not make for an attractive appearance or a pleasant texture--they are like bits of paper in the soup. I found that I had to puree the soup with my (luckily) powerful immersion blender and then strain it through a fine mesh in order to get rid of the potato skin fragments and the fennel strings and fibers. It was a tedious and messy process. All of this being said, the soup was delicious and having been strained, had a velvety and very pleasing texture, though I added milk, not cream, to the soup. In this final version, it was a very pale green, creamy and beautifully garnished with a scattering of the delicate tiny fennel fronds. I must say the roasted potatoes were fabulous--I could have stopped there and just eaten a platter of them. I think a stock could be made from roasted fennel and onion and then used as a base for the potato soup--the lovely flavor without all the work.
useful (4)
Quite delicious and very easy, this roasted squash doesn't seem to me to use such an extravagant amount of sugar and butter and salt--once I had peeled and seeded my squash I had two pounds of flesh. I used 2 tablespoons of sugar, 3 tablespoons of butter and less than a teaspoon of salt. Ironically, quite a bit of the sugar and butter remained in the pan, caramelized around the edges of the silpat (thank goodness I used it---this would have been a messy pan to clean otherwise) and so the squash was really pretty low in fat and sugar. This dish however needs something more -- I found it to be a bit bland--found myself thinking about grated orange rind, cinnamon or five spice powder or garam masala. I also suspect that the use of olive oil in combination with the butter would mean the dish could retain the butter flavor but lose a bit of the saturated fat. In all, a good base to start from, not unlike some of the other recipes in this book.
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I've made this twice now, once with homemade, salt free chicken stock and once with roasted vegetable stock Both versions were delicious. I love the oregano and the sweetness of the carrots. I also think the potatoes add a nice richness--though I did peel mine, as I find that potato peels in soup make for a muddy sort of effect. I liked cooking the peas in two stages--the texture was excellent. This freezes beautifully and just needs a touch of liquid (water with a spot of wine) to achieve a good thickness when reheating the soup.
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The Pie and Pastry Bible
By Rose Levy Beranbaum
Scribner - 1998
This is outstanding pumpkin custard. I used it to fill two tarts which were eaten by quite a number of very happy people. The spicing is just right; the texture is absolutely lovely and it is really quite easy. Such a nice change from the evaporated milk/gelatin/tinned mix variations so often served at Thanksgiving. It should be noted that (in the US at least) cans of pumpkin puree are no longer 15 ounces. I use the large 28 ounce cans and always seem to have small bits left over in the freezer or the fridge.
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Website: Smitten Kitchen
This is, without a doubt, the best ricotta I have ever made. Heck, it's the best ricotta I've ever eaten.
Granted, it's not exactly slimming--whole milk and cream (or, in my case, half and half), but it is so smooth and so creamy and the lemon and the salt amounts are just right. I made double the amount and used 6 cups of milk and 2 cups of half and half. It was easy, relatively quick and I can give no information about how long it lasts because it lasted no time at all when offered up as a spread for crostini. I have to make it again (without telling) so I can try it in a baked pasta or some sort of stuffing for something savory or sweet.
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Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy: A Feast of 175 Regional Recipes
By Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, Tanya Bastianich Manuali
Knopf - 2009
A lovely pastry/cookie which is simple to make, lovely to look at and really delicious. I substituted marsala for the vin santo and left out the nuts. I used exactly the dried fruit mixture suggested (raisins, apricots, cherries and prunes) and a granny smith apple. Once I had filled and rolled the pastry, I chilled it briefly which made it easier to slice. I baked my cookies on a silpat and painted the glaze on the cookies right on the silpat. The cookies are really pretty and really delicious. The only difficulty in the recipe is that you must plan ahead--the chopped fruit must macerate overnight. I look forward to experimenting with other combinations of fruit/nuts and other dessert wines or liqueurs.
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The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons, and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution
By Alice Waters
Clarkson Potter - 2007
This cake is wonderful. I actually had my doubts that the fresh cranberries and orange juice might not work and that the cake would be too soft to stand up to the fruit and caramel. It works beautifully and it looks gorgeous. The little bit of extra work (separating the eggs and making the meringue) results in such a lovely texture. And really it's not that much work--I think it took me about 20 minutes to make the caramel, cook the fruit, make the batter and get the cake into the oven. I cheated just a bit and did pour the batter over the fruit while it was still quite warm, but to no ill effect. I took the cake in its pan (I used a heavy nonstick cake pan) to a dinner party and turned it out onto a platter when I got there. It travelled well and looked so pretty. Everyone loved it--and even the dessert avoiders came back for more.
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Website: food52
What a fabulous cake! Perhaps a little sweet for breakfast, but what knockout flavors! I had enough to fill my bundt and to make a sweet little loaf for tasting. Once I tasted the little loaf, I decided any additional anything was unnecessary so no glaze and no 10x. The cherries combined with the cocoa et al made for such a rich and interesting streusel flavor and the cake part is quite marvelous. I'll be adding this to my regular cake rotation.
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Website: food52
Many, many thanks for this lovely recipe. I made minimal changes--I used half chopped tart apple, half rhubarb and baked it in a good, heavy cake pan instead of the cast iron. It was absolutely fabulous. Everyone raved and, as the name (especially with addition of apple) is a bit unwieldy, the youth vote was to call it "Unicorn Cake." I have already received multiple requests for more unicorn cake. BTW, my fresh ginger was living in the freezer--I grated it frozen and it was perfect. Maybe this is a little astuce known to everyone, but I was delighted to discover it.
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Amy's Bread, Revised and Updated: Artisan-style breads, sandwiches, pizzas, and more from New York City's favorite bakery
By Amy Scherber, Toy Kim Dupree, Aimee Herring
Wiley - 2010
These are excellent rolls. This recipe is very flexible--I have made this with various seeds and soakers and always been extremely pleased with the results. I do use instant yeast, which eliminates the need to feed and and proof in the first step. You can also freeze these rolls and then warm them, wrapped in foil, after thawing.
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This is a good bread, though do NOT use as much salt as is listed--one tablespoon is plenty--and this from a salt lover. As with other breads, I have done all the initial kneading in my stand mixer and had lovely results. Also I use instant yeast which shortens/simplifies the first step. I use King Arthur flour -- if you use a softer flour, you might want to think about using bread flour.
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I LOVE this bread. And it's so simple--no preferment, it's ready in a couple of hours. It keeps--either wrapped for a day or a two or well wrapped in the freezer. It slices beautifully; it's good toasted, in sandwiches, with honey or jam, along side a salad or a bowl of soup. I find my semolina flour in an Italian deli/grocery or in the ethnic aisle (Middle Eastern section) of a supermarket.
It's fun to play with the seeds--natural and/or black sesame seeds to make it pretty.
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The Sweeter Side of Amy's Bread: Cakes, Cookies, Bars, Pastries and More from New York City's Favorite Bakery
By Amy Scherber, Toy Kim Dupree, Aimee Herring
Wiley - 2008
This recipe is worth the price of the book. It is now my go-to banana bread. It never fails. I do add a bit more sugar and am a bit more generous with the banana puree and the berries. I have also found that the bread takes longer than the 55 to 65 minutes in the recipe (which may of course be on account of the additional fruit). I have made it on occasion without the berries and with walnuts added and sometimes with other refinements and it is always delicious.
It keeps well for a day or so and can be frozen, though I don't think it's as good once thawed. Do let it cool before slicing.
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Website: Joy of Baking
As long as you remember to take out butter and cream cheese well before you want to start the recipe(both need to be room temp), this is so simple and the results are a knockout. It seems as if the amounts of sugar and flour are a bit modest, but trust the recipe. The end result fills a 9 inch springform quite comfortably. The suggested baking time may be a bit off (my cake took longer than the suggested 50-70 minutes) but otherwise everything was just fine. I did the cream cheese part in my blender.
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Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy: A Feast of 175 Regional Recipes
By Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, Tanya Bastianich Manuali
Knopf - 2009
This is one of those amazing recipes--a few simple ingredients magically transform into a dish with intricate, layered flavors. I confess that I was halfway through making the dish before I discovered no olives! (I always have olives!) and so I substituted capers. Otherwise, I made the recipe as written and I loved it. I served it with a bit of pasta--a lovely main dish.
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Plenty: Vibrant Recipes from London's Ottolenghi
By Yotam Ottolenghi, Jonathan Lovekin
Chronicle Books - 2011
A delicious potato salad, helped greatly by the fact that all the herbs (parsley, basil and mint) were fresh-picked from my own plants. The mint gave the salad such a lovely brightness. I made two substitutions--a couple of chicken eggs instead of 15 quail eggs (not easily picked up at the neighborhood grocer) and walnuts instead of pine nuts.
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Damon Lee Fowler's New Southern Baking: Classic Flavors for Today's Cook
By Damon Lee Fowler
Simon & Schuster - 2005
This is a knock-out cake--remarkably moist and rich and the topping really takes it over the top. Because of personal preference, I left the pecans out of the batter, but added extra nuts into the topping. I used unsweetened coconut and Granny Smith apples and was generous with the apples. I have now made this in a large tube pan and as two loaf cakes. The recipe works well either way. You can leave the topping and it's a great cake, but the topping is like having a crumbled praline on top of your apple cake--awfully good!
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The Williams-Sonoma Collection: Muffins (Williams-Sonoma Collection (New York, N.Y.).)
By Beth Hensperger
Free Press - 2003
These muffins, with a few modifications, are fabulous. I took my cues from "Culinary Chronicles" and left the nuts out of the topping and used a cup of sour cream and 1/2 a cup of milk in place of the buttermilk in the batter. I added a bit of brown sugar to both the streusel and the batter. I used butter in the streusel but substituted canola oil for the melted butter in the batter. The resulting muffins were moist, tender, not overly sweet and the recipe really allows the flavor of the blackberries to shine. I think this will also work wonderfully with other berries/fruits and with orange or lime rind.
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